Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Testing blogger's offline capabilities by posting this on the subway

The Consulate of Kazakhstan is small, calm, mild-mannered and very neat, a description that could also be applied to its representative. He was the first Kazakh I've ever met (probably), and he did a good job of making the nation seem competent and polite. If it turns out not to be a kind of Central Asian Canada, I'll be disappointed.

The Kazakhs are unusual in the region in that they don't require a Letter of Invitation to issue a tourist visa, and, unlike every other embassy I've ever heard of, they don't ask for proof that you're planning to leave again afterwards. What they do want is a handwritten letter explaining that you'd like to visit please. I didn't have one of those with me, so they gave me a sheet of paper and a pen.

There was a lovely big map of the country on the wall. This was good news for me because if you think I can spell Kazakhstan correctly under pressure, you are very wrong.


Monday, August 1, 2011

Thinking Kazakh thoughts in Brooklyn.

Apparently the train journey from Moscow to Kazakhstan is so boring that your brain enters an unparalleled state of meditation. Four days of endless steppes: higher brain functions shut down. Internet posters seem to feel that this is an acceptable risk, and even consider it a good thing. I hope they're right. I'm applying for a Kazakh visa tomorrow morning.

I was surprised to learn that Almaty is one of the fifty most expensive cities in the world. Accommodation sites don't disagree: Almaty will be the best part of $100 per night. After a month of hostel dorms, the bathrobe luxury of the business hotel might seem as mind-altering as the steppes.

31 days.