Visiting friends in Kochi City

We had a moon viewing party last night at Kochi castle. Yesterday was the day of the year when you view the moon, so we did. Jonathan explained that occasions like this (cherry blossom viewing is more famous example) provide an opportunity for a regulated and rather formal society like Japan to let its hair down. We went to a convenience store to get supplies and I asked J to explain what everything was and when it was appropriate to eat it: this is dried octopus; it`s a snack people have while watching movies; this is a rice ball; it`s good for travelling; this is like porridge; it`s a comfort food for when you`re sick. We bought a little bottle of sake (traditional for moon-viewing) and two bags of crisps (uh, not quite so traditional), ramen flavour and pizza potato flavour.

The top of the castle grounds was deserted, but a canopy had been raised: other moon viewers must have been there earlier. We sipped our sake and ate our crisps and watched the very yellow moon. A cicada attacked us. It`s been four years since Jonathan and I hung out last, also at Kochi City. We talked about old times and new times and getting older and how everyone we knew was doing and how metallic and unsettling cicadas can be and how sitting under the moon sharing sake would be a crime in Ireland and how different societies can be: when there`s effectively no violent crime, alcohol isn`t at all a cause for concern; Jonathan said that nobody would think anything of it if you picked up your kid from daycare while drinking a beer. It`s a whole other world.

The lack of crime is initially unbelievable, then wondrous. Jonathan`s wife, Hisa, had been bewildered in Dublin airport when he picked up all of their belongings -- laptop, wallets, camera -- and took them with him to the counter when they went for more coffee. Why not leave them there? Wait, why would someone take them? It must be horrible for Japanese people on first trips abroad. Compared to here, almost everywhere is violent, crime-riddled and, well, kind of savage. Rude as well. Nobody here is rude. Every interaction is friendly, enthusiastic and full-on engaged. Another data point: Japanese doesn`t have swear words, or at least none that anybody ever uses.

Aw, every society has advantages and disadvantages, but I`m really enjoying this right now. In one way it`ll be a relief to move on -- it is EXPENSIVE here and my newfound cake-for-breakfast habit isn`t helping my bank account -- but I kind of wish I could wander around Japan for a long time more. The lack of chaos, the lack of crime, the helpfulness of every single person... it`s like a massage for the brain. It`s very relaxing. But having my cares soothed away in Japan won`t get me closer to the Atlantic (though I am moving slowly, slowly westwards), so on I go. Busan tomorrow.